Hi Brett, I've been using your site for a while now. It's fantastic. I own several slave clocks from Siemens, Bürk, RFT, Peweta, and Pragaton. The slave clocks all require 24 volts. I've recreated the Arduino Pragotron Master Clock with a UNO, and it works perfectly. It's great for the second clocks, but how do I get the code to output minute pulses? I've already commented out and re-commented the sketch, but I haven't gotten anywhere. Perhaps you'll have the time to help me.

Best regards, and thanks for sharing your projects.

Peter

Hi,just seen your awesome cyclotron clock.It is absolutely amazing. Would like to know how much it would cost (if applicable) For you to build a unit for me?

I entered the wrong email address.
Thank you for this DIY project.
Is the programming switch a push button or a switch? Is the pin permanently grounded when the watch winder is running?
Thank you in advance.
Eberhard

Greetings Brett, Enjoy the LED Wordclock. I made it with a fully 3d printed front diffuser. Printed it on a Bambu with an AMS for two colors. I would be happy to share it with you if you wish.

I do not have a local NTP and it appears one is required to have the clock update each minute. Also, the seconds display along the bottom does not work. It appears to be stuck on the seconds when the clock reset.

The RTC synchs and sets the clock when reset by power or 2 second button push but does not update the time while running. I selected animations and seconds update on the website when I set it up so I would expect the seconds to update.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Brett,

Just wanted to say thanks for your word clock instructions and the Arduino code you share on your site. I built mine a bit different, but the basic elements are the same. For the front panel, I used an aluminum sheet, 1/8" (~3mm) thick and 4 ft (~1220 mm) square. It's big! I might be pushing the limits of the MAX7219 chips as I am running 2 LEDs to each letter. Each LED is 20ma, so I've configured the drivers for 40ma per letter. I didn't want to guess which resistor to put on the LED driver boards, so I ended up putting a 20k ohm pot to adjust if needed. One issue I ran into with such a large clock was diffusing the light from the LEDs so that there was no "hot spot" visible behind each letter. I ended up making an acrylic tile for each letter and mounting the LEDs along the perimeter of each tile. It was quite a bit of work, but worth it in the end. I'd love to share some pictures with you - not sure how to do that here?

Thanks once again,
Kevin